Brinkies Brae and Back 2009

Sunday 19th July Another Marco Magical Mystery Tour !

2009-07-27T01:04:00.000-07:00

Picnic tea in Leichestein!!
We had had instructions to be home from the old town by 4.30 pm at latest –arrived to find R&S already gone on train to an unknown destination. We set of in car with Marco, who was still being mysterious about destination and a picnic bag and headed north, where it soon became clear what our destination would be. Liechenstein is a tiny principality between Switzerland and Austria, whose prime industry is to be a tax haven for the 80,000 companies registered there, which we had intended to visit on return from Pontresina, but ran out of time. Arrived there in an hour just before R&S arrived on a bus that they had taken from town where train arrived at. Had stroll around the single main street and Marco organized to get a set of their stamps for us though the Post office was closed. Then up to a lookout above the Prince’s castle for a most delightful picnic tea.

Sunday 19th July Zurich Old Town

2009-07-26T03:26:00.000-07:00

Slow morning –Financial Times weekend edition is fascinating paper and takes ages to read over breakfast. As in Tokyo one of the joys of staying with R&M is daily delivery of English editions of FT and Wall St Journal! Our holiday has included much reading of the “quality” English, American and European press, with the luxury of reading complete articles and then follow up comment and letters. Only in Helsinki and Croatia did we watch any TV, mostly sport.
Then H&L off on foot to explore Zurich old town

Saturday 18th July Notre Dame du Haut Roncamp

2009-07-26T03:12:00.000-07:00

Saturday 18th July Notre Dame du Haut von Ronchamp
All in car together for the drive to Ronchamp to visit the church on the hilltop designed by Le Courbousier and built on the site of previous churches dating back to about 11 century -most recent previous church had been shelled in WW11. This huge white concrete church was breathtaking in its modern1950’simplicity and was entirely controversial because the good burghers of Ronchamp could not believe an agnostic could build a Maire church..but build he did and it is now in every Swiss child’s school book and is hailed the world over. Lyndsay was really moved by the serenity of the building and said God was really there!! Helen had a less emotional response but impressed never the less.
Then dropped R&S at Basel Banhof and did shopping there for dinner before heading back to Zurich –all arrived back in Frey Strasse at same time.

Sat 18th Le Tour depart video

2009-07-26T02:10:00.000-07:00

Seemed pointless to try to do still photos so just let the video on my still camera roll!! So close i cold have touched them !!

Sat 18th July Le Tour Depart

2009-07-26T01:52:00.000-07:00

Another delicious breakfast at Chez Leslie, with fresh bread from boulangerie on the corner. Then left R&M&S to go swimming and H&L set off to see what was going on in the town, weather still a bit overcast but no rain. Lots of trucks had already gone but there was a whole enclosure, where hundreds of invited guests were having breakfast with team and media people and former stars were signing autographs etc. Found a spot on road to watch the caravanne depart at 10 30 am and then off to explore a part of the old town called Petite Venise as it is set along canals – very old houses all painted bright but subtle colours –pink, yellow, blue and green. Back to a front row spot on narrow cobbled street at 12 noon to see actual start of the day’s stage of the tour. Initially all the official and media cars and motorbikes, then just as exciting as the previous day the police motorcycles came around the corner with flashing blue lights and the whole field behind them about 3 abreast, which was all the road width allowed and everyone cheered and waved flags again. We could have reached out and touched them!! Didn’t take photos but just let the small video on camera run. After the riders came the team support cars with the mechanics and all the spare wheels on the roof racks. Then wandered back thru the town watching all the dismantling and cleaning up that was going on and met up with the others at the Gare.

Friday 17th July. Tonight Marco said "lets go to Kayserberg for dinner!!"

2009-07-26T01:39:00.000-07:00

So we went to Kayserberg, a small village about 30 min drive from Colmar on the Alsace Wine trail. First thing we saw after parking the car on the outskirts of the village was a stork nest high on the top of a spire with an adult plus 3 babies being fed –these birds used to be nearly extinct in 1980’s but there are now hundreds of breeding pairs after some active intervention. Then on way to restaurant we passed Albert Schwieter’s birthplace and then happened upon a village accordion orchestra and dancers all in traditional dress of the region –the dancing was on the cobblestones which are difficult to even walk over. Sammi was entranced by both the music and the dancing ( later back in Zurich after 1 min video clip was put on computer he replayed it over and over for about ½ hr –with headphones on !!) Then we had typical Alsace fare for dinner, sauerkraut with duck for H, pork for Ruth and fish for L&M. Delicious and very cheerful hosts. Some TdeF press people arriving in village later as we left.

More Le Tour arrive

2009-07-26T01:29:00.000-07:00

More caravanne, police motorbikes come, leader arrives then the peleton.

More Tour de France

2009-07-26T01:17:00.000-07:00

buying souvenirs, kids race, then it rained -but even the wet dog was patient!! Then the caravanne arrived.

Friday 17th July Colmar -The rain and le Tour !!

2009-07-26T00:38:00.000-07:00

Weather forecast had predicted heavy rain and it was not wrong. H&L out early, after great French bread at breakfast, to inspect route and find best vantage point for arrival which was not scheduled until late afternoon. Walked the last 2 km of course to finish and it was fascinating to see all the preparations that have to go on –huge amount of work in erecting the barriers, sweeping the roads ( and scrubbing and cleaning road surface esp on sharp corners) and getting all the press boxes and presentation stands set up-all truck mounted. Of course huge merchandising array as well and we bought requisite caps, T shirts and model cyclists.
Spent some of afternoon out of rain in café at railway station and then at about 3 pm returned to our selected spot on a curve by a railway overbridge, just before the hairpin bend at the 1 km mark. 2 curves meant field would have to slow down a bit. Not too may people there ( but cheerful and helpful people telling us what was happening) so we were right in front at barrier on curve –bit scary at times as everything came straight towards us on wet road before turning. Continued to rain quite heavily at times and caravanne didn’t arrive until well after 4pm –Sammi sitting on Marco’s shoulders was magnet for the goodies. Then the excitement mounted and the police motorbikes with blue flashing lights appeared over hump of bridge with the single race leader ( Henrich Hauser ) and everyone cheered and waved flags etc –then a few minutes later another 2 riders, then minutes later the first peleton group –peleton was split in 3 today –and finally the “Lantern Rouge” the last man came in about an hour after the winner !! We tried to walk down to the finish line to see presentations but too many people there, however we could hear it all especially the presentation theme we have heard so often at home on TV. Magnifique !! Everything we could have asked for except of course the rain.

Thursday 16th July Zurich to Colmar ( France)-off to the Tour de France

2009-07-26T00:19:00.000-07:00

Ruth and Sammi traveled by train to Basel and we drove and met them there at the “swimming pool” which turned out to be the Rhine River!! We all managed some sort of swim with Ruth and Helen doing the long swim –really just get in and float as current so strong. River was quite muddy and cold after recent rains but very invigorating. On to Colmar in Alsace in France and found our B&B Chez Leslie with no problems and a great welcome from Zahrah –beautiful old house and we had adjoining rooms each with small ensuite. Strolled down Ave de la Republique and Champ de Mars inspecting set up for Le Tour arrival, on way to dinner at Winstub Le Cyne-great food in garden setting followed by stroll around old town and seeing the arrival of lots of the supporting trucks

Wednesday 15th July Zurich

2009-07-25T23:02:00.000-07:00

H&L let loose on public transport alone to get to Museum of Civil Defense of City of Zurcih before our free transport and museum entry ran out at 12.18 pm –found it in suburb but because our German not good hadn’t realized only open 1st Sat of Month! Walked back via another very avant garde gallery with very weird sculptures and found K5, the haircut place recommended where H had cut by young German woman who commutes 60 min in train twice each day as she cant get work in her part of Germany. On way home had a great browse in the Caritas shops near appt to fulfill our needs for bit of second hand shopping (Lyndsay =2 scarves) and managed to shop at Migros supermarket so Lynds could cook red cabbage and chorizo for dinner.

Monday and Tuesday 13th and 14th July Pontresina and Zurich

2009-07-25T22:47:00.000-07:00

Another fine concert in the forest on Monday before we returned to Zurich. Helen drove and there was a minor detour to a golf course on the outskirts of the city before “Mme TomTom” delivered us to the door step at 15 Freya Strasse.
Tuesday dawned fine again and we headed off into town on a day's tourist pass for all transport and museum/art gallery entrance. Up to university with Ruth and great cheap luch at the cafeteria at Mensa Polyterrasse before heading off on foot to the Zurich Kunsthaus ( Art Gallery) where we spent the rest of the afternoon –most amazing collection on display, from Old Masters to very modern –something for everyone –more Chagall’s for Lyndsay!!
Then continued on to meet R&M&S at Marcos newspaper office in an interesting old building down by the lake and then to have picnic by the lake –but another of the surprises, as we headed onto a ferry for 1 ½ hr cruise down the lake with our picnic-all covered by our days public transport ticket. Switzerland is even more of a public transport delight than Hong Kong or Japan. Got off the ferry on homeward side of lake where lots of people in a park and R & H had a swim about 9.30 pm. Home on train and quick dash to appt to bring washing in from verandah before spectacular thunder and lightening and downpour.

Alpine Flowers

2009-07-25T22:36:00.000-07:00

We were really surprised and unprepared for the delicate beauty and of the alpine flowers in the meadows in the Engadin valley. The colours,texures and extrordinary varieties amazed and captured us.From the bright blue and marroon flowers down by the lake edge to white eildeweiss of the highest remote crannies of the forest (by the remaining snow pockets from last winter)..they were really fabulous.

Sunday 12th July To Roseg by horse cart and walk back.

2009-07-16T03:05:00.000-07:00

After morning concert we all went on the public horse cart ( about 1 ½ hour) up the valley to Roseg where there is another glacier. Picnic there –lots of cows with cowbells which are very noisy and then H&L plus Ruth and Sammi walked slowly back and Marco went ahead as he had to catch train to Zurich for work Monday. Interesting things en route –lots of birds, big ant hills and lots of damage from avalanches last winter -piles of torn up and broken trees with still frozen snow underneath and of course another river to have stones thrown into. All very tired and slept well that night. Note H&L efforts at Nordic walking with Leki sticks!! Also a signed Lance Armstrong cycling jersey in foyer of hotel there cos he trained there one year.

Saturday July 11th Concert in forest and Bernina Express to Tirano

2009-07-16T02:45:00.000-07:00

Saturday started magnificently with a walk into the forest at Pontresina to a chamber music concert –this happens every day between 11am-12 noon from June to September-there is a little wooden auditorium and wooden benches and people drift in an out out of the area with their newspaper or walking the dog or with tramping boots on ready to go walking afterwards. There is a core group called Camerata Pontresina with others occasionally –they play a programme with one main work and a number of waltzes and concert overtures –quite emotional the first time you experience this. ( We went each of the 3 days we were there).
Then having gone to Italy for dinner the previous night it seemed appropriate to go to Tarino in Italy also for lunch on Saturday on the Bernina Express which has observation cars with huge windows and which descends down the steep valley through a series of tunnels and spirals and also runs thru village streets. Lunch( accompanied by a bit of throwing around of red wine !!) plus gelato and bit of a walk around then back on train up to station beyond Poschiavo and then an hours walk back to dinner at small family pensione –beautiful simple dinner -barley consommé, spinach gnocchi and rossfleuisch (horse meat fillets- travel is an occasion to broaden the gastronomic mind!!) plus fresh picked berries from their garden. Ruth had taken the car this far so we had another drive back thru the mountains in moonlight.

Friday 10th July Dinner at Livignio

2009-07-15T23:10:00.000-07:00

Marco said “Shall we go to Italy for dinner?” so we did !! Up a mountain pass, past glaciers to Livignio to a great family restaurant 50 metres past the border post and then home about midnight with moonlight shining on the mountain tops. What an action packed day !!

Thursday 10th July Zurich to Pontresina

2009-07-15T23:03:00.000-07:00

Ruth up early and on train to Samadan for school meeting and H&L, Marco and Sammi followed later in morning in the car for 2 hours journey up to Alps, which included a 19 km trip thru a tunnel in the “car on a train”. Spectacular mountain scenery. At Zuoz stopped to see the new appt in process of renovation, good walk around village and then met Ruth from train and all on to the current “bach” at Pontresina. Then on thru St Moritz to Sils and great walk by the lake and lots of stone throwing into the water-adults as well as child!!

Wednesday/Thursday July 8th and 9th Croatia to Swtzerland

2009-07-15T22:31:00.000-07:00

Woke on Wednesday morning to grey skies and sound of thunder in the distance over on the mainland around St Ilia the mountain above Orebic but this soon cleared and we spent the day "at home" swimming, packing and generally lounging around. Up at 4.45 am on Thursday morning to get the shuttle back to Korcula town for the 2 hour ferry jouney back to to Split.
Very hot in Split so after a couple of hours looking at Dicletian Palace and markets we retreated to shady café umbrellas and sat and drank coffee, eat pastries and read newspapers, until picked up by Ivan, our nice driver for transfer to airport. Uneventful trip via Frankfurt to Zurich where we were met at airport by Ruth, Marco and Sammi. So nice to see them after 2 years and there was much laughter and fun and then home to their apt in central Zurich on train.

Wednesday 7th July Dubrovnik Old Town

2009-07-15T22:00:00.000-07:00

Arrived in Dubrovnik about 11 am and dropped off at the Old Town with pickup scheduled for 3.30 pm. It was very, very hot and town very crowded ( 3 cruise ships in port) but fasinating place, first settled in the 7th Century and with an amazingly checkered history, most recently being shelled in the war in 1991-92. Some of that damage remains but much has been restored. We walked the city wall route (about 2 km) which was incredibly hot 30+ degrees and sunny so we had to resort to Japanese style umbrella use, spent sometime in the central street (Stradun) and around the old port area, before retiring to an internet café for some cool and calm and then café for cold beer. Fortunately return van was much newer model with superb driver.
On arrival back at apt at about 6.30 pm we dived off the end of the pier into cool sea, so nice after a hot sticky day. Lyndsay has been practicing her diving skills learned from Rob in France in 2000 !!
We finished watching some of the Michael Jackson Memorial from LA on our “sat” TV then off for a late meal and then to bed with aircond on again.

Tuesday July 7th Journey to Dubrovnik for the day

2009-07-15T21:52:00.000-07:00

Tuesday July 7th To Dubrovnik for the day-the drive there along Peljesac Peninsula.
Phone call at 6a m from Anne in Auckland with my PUK number which successfully unlocked phone-what a relief. Another early start as pickup at 7.15 am to head for ferry to Orebic on the mainland (15 min) and then approx 2 hour drive to Dubrovnik. Others with us on the day trip were 2 Slovenians, 2 Swedes and 2 Americans living in Germany plus a lunatic driver who treated the speed limit as a minimum, the rev counter as something to be pushed to the limit in every gear, brakes only to be used as a last resort and following distance generally about 2 m. Along with a winding road above really very steep drops it made for a fairly exciting trip especially as we were sitting in front next to the driver.
Several interesting places on the way. Small town of Trstenik set right down the bottom of the hills and the 14th century walls above Ston build to defend the northern border of the then Dubrovnik republic. There are also large salt pans here.

2009-07-15T21:46:00.000-07:00

Monday 6th July Korcula old town

2009-07-15T21:39:00.000-07:00

Early start, caught the 7.15 am bus from Lumbarda into Korcula, about 15 minutes of very fast driving, and spent nearly 3 hours looking around the town before the hordes arrived. Beautiful town laid out in a leaf pattern with an avenue of pines ( but not as we know them, they have interesting almost elegant shapes) along the ramparts on the eastern side of the town. Looking through the main gate you can see the marble floor worn and polished by millions of steps over the centuries. There is also a beautiful small cathedral, still in daily use, with an early Tintoretto painting behind the altar. One of Korcula’s claims to fame is that Marco Polo may have been born here, certainly he was captured by the Genoese in a sea battle off Korcula in 1298. Clogs with springs in the heels seem to be the in thing here especially amongst waitresses and women in shops –photo shows very flash version. Had coffee and amazing hot pastry with ricotta, lemon, sultanas and another indefinable ingredient before catching 10 am bus back. Bus fare seemed quite expensive, 15 kuna each one way so return journey of about 7 km for both of us was 60 kuna which is about $NZ20.
Driving is a real experience here-narrow roads, casual pedestrians including mothers pushing babies, cyclists, viticulturist in odd carts and cars, buses and trucks rocketing past with millimetres between them. The locals drive older Renault vans, Fiats, Opel Kadetts, sort of a la Waiheke or Great Barrier Island and then some of the visitors whiz around in late model BMW, Audi, Peugeot, Saabs etc with number plates from Croatia, Slovenia, Austria, Germany, Poland, Netherlands and all over Europe.
More swimming, sleeping (and snoring) by the pool, Tour de France this evening and then home cooked meal. Still having problems with my phone which still says blocked –help desk tonight says I need the PUK but it’s the one number I don’t have written down so have had to contact Marion in Auckland to see if Anne and Gene can find it.
Mosquito’s a problem tonight (we have both been badly bitten) so have put the air conditioner on and shut the windows.

Sunday July 5th Korcula

2009-07-15T21:27:00.000-07:00

Sunday July 5th Slept like babes, up about 7 .30 am, breakfast and then off walking with togs and lavalava on –instead of going around path by sea we went up the steps and past houses and the church-bells seem to ring at 12 noon and then again later in the day. This was real Mediterranean/Adriatic houses –stone or concrete block with rock or tile roofs, grape vines growing over patios, fields of olives and tomatoes. The purple bougainvillea is in full bloom everywhere here. Went and had a swim at the sandy beach with lots of families then walked over to the other sandy beach but didn’t spend much time there as sort of teenagers beach with bar and music and boy racers. Walked back here in middle of the day with lavalavas draped over our heads because it was so hot. Little chapel at the cross roads in the middle of vineyards. Famous local wine is called Grk but what we have tasted so far would indicate it must be an acquired taste.
Later watched the 2nd stage of the Tour de France and then the epic battle between Roger Federer and Andy Roddick for the Wimbledon men’s final and then went around to Café Feral at end of the road for fish dinner –whole fish grilled -huge and expensive –doesn’t seem to be much concept of one fillet of fish!! When waiter knew we were from NZ he told us that Nick Nobilo, the NZ winemaker was from Lumbarda and stays in a house up on the hill behind the restaurant.

Saturday 4th July Lumbarda Croatia-we have died and gone to heaven!!!

2009-07-04T14:19:00.000-07:00

Woke this morning to a cloudless blue sky and fantastic view across to the mainland in quiet and peaceful surroundings. Went for a long walk on the recently completed pathway around to the long sandy beach, then into the village which is much larger than we had imagined ( tho still an intimate place) which has a fruit and vege market, a supermarket, bread shop, Tourist info and bike hire and a few guest houses and bars as well as local residents homes. We then spent rest of day swimming in sea and pool, and sleeping by the pool. After some fiddling around managed to get the satellite TV to work in time to watch live Serena beat Venus at Wimbledon and Fabian Cancellara win the time trial at Monaco, the first stage of the Tour de France all thru German language channels but that’s fine. Now at 8 pm off for another swim then dinner and wireless internet at apt café. Our cup runneth over and the apts look just like ( well some similarities) the movie set for Mama Mia-expect to see Meryl Street dancing down the steps and bursting into song at any minute!!! There are lots of families with kids here but apts are quite separate so minimal noise. This place is just what we were looking for –Lynds wants to live here!!

Friday 3rd July Helsinki to Frankfurt to Split to Korcula to Lumbarda

2009-07-04T14:10:00.000-07:00

A very long day leaving hotel in Helsinki at 5.45 am and arriving in Lumbarda on the island of Korcula in Croatia about 8.30 pm. 2 flights, one on Lufthansa from Helsinki to Frankfurt and then on Croation Airlines on to Split where it started to rain as we stepped out of the airport and poured for 2 hours with spectacular lightning.2 people on that plane had “Paris Hilton” dogs in little cases slung over shoulder and carried on as hand luggage-one of the dogs had its own seat on the plane and its owner had another poodle in a crate in the hold!! One kept yapping during the flight. From Split we had a 2 ½ hour catamaran trip, very smoth with a stop at Hvar and another smaller port, then via van driven in rally style by a 12 year old the 7 kms from Korcula town to our apt in Lumbarda arriving in time to see a spectacular sunset. Dinner and to bed.

Thursday 2nd July Tallinn Estonia

2009-07-04T14:01:00.000-07:00

Regretfully once we reached Estionia ( and again in the evening when we left) there were no border controls, not even a bored officer lounging around so no stamps in our passports and we needn’t even have taken them with us.
Our sobering entry to Tallinn old town was the symbolic memorial sculpture (Broken Line) to the 852 people who died in a ferry sinking the Baltic in 1994. We then went on in to the Old Town, a well preserved medieval city, via the 1380 gate tower. Our first stop was St Olavs Church, where we climbed the 210 steps up a very narrow winding staircase to emerge on a very narrow ledge at the top –very hot and quite dusty but the view from the top more than made up for it. In 13th century this church was once the world’s tallest building at 159 metres high!! We wandered the old town, which is being gradually restored tho has still some areas that look original 1300s, stopping for lunch in Raekoja Plats where we were entertained by a youth folk orchestra obviously rehearsing for a performance. We made final climb up to Toompea, the highest part of the old town where there is the huge 19th Alexander Nevsky Russian Orthodox cathedral as well as the Lutheran Toonkirik, Estionia’s oldest church dating from 1219. On the way out, as aficionados of the spy novel, we had to call by the building that was the KGB Headquarters during the time Estonia was part of the Soviet Union.
There is another whole modern part of Tallinn (well some looked like old soviet era apartment buildings) which we did not get to see but is supposed to have some very fashionable shops.

Thursdy 2nd July Cruising the Baltic Finnish Style !!

2009-07-04T13:54:00.000-07:00

Up early and off to the ferry terminal via 15A bus to join hundreds of mostly Finnish tourists for a day on the Baltic cruising to Tallinn in Estonia and back. What an experience!
We found a comfortable place to sit in what turned out to be the dance bar. First surprise was the stampede to the bar which opened on the dot of 8 am as we sailed from Helsinki-even for Helen pints of beer and spirits for breakfast is a little excessive. Then to our astonishment the curtains were drawn back at 8.45am and a dance band struck up lively tunes and before our eyes dozens of mainly middle aged Finns were unselfconsciously and cheerfully waltzing around the dance floor, perhaps fueled by their breakfast drinks. This continued all the way across the Baltic for 3 hours and kept us well entertained, especially as many were expert dancers.
Then there was breakfast (10 euros each) which was a huge buffet affair, similar to that we had had in our hotel, but much bigger selections. Everything from organic porridge (organic, gluten, lactose free seems to be very big here –everything is labeled), muesli, fruit, yoghurt , berries ( cloudberry jam is big here) etc to bacon, eggs, hash browns, pancakes etc to meats, fish, gerkins, cucumber, tomatoes etc plus a whole variety of different breads. Could feed yourself for a whole day from here.
After the day in Tallinn (see next post) the party continued on the return journey which left at 5 pm, tho more dancers, including more younger people, and faster music, including “Elvis” with lots of rock and roll twirling. We will never need to go on an ocean cruise again, no entertainment could be as good as this. Joined the throngs downstairs in the duty free shop for a modest amount of shopping but could not compete with the suitcases mainly full of alcohol carried ashore by the Finns.

Monday 29th June -Wednesday 1 July

2009-07-04T13:36:00.000-07:00

H went off on the tram conferencing each day and attended the civic reception at Town Hall on the Monday night.550 participants from 39 countries. Interesting stuff but nothing earth shattering however some practical things and contacts to follow up on.
Lyndsay got a Helsinki haircut and cruised galleries and museums. Wednesday night we went to a roof top bar recommended by Michael –great views and ambience –quite small so lots of changing tables etc as people came and went. We found prices of everything quite high in Finland even after accounting for the currency difference.

Sunday 28th June Bike riding in Helsinki

2009-07-04T13:20:00.000-07:00

Borrowed two of the hotel bikes and set off around the bike paths that are all over central Helsinki. Bikes only had foot back brake and we found it a little difficult at first to stop with control. Lyndsay strongly recommends the use of bike helmets having personal experience now of their efficacy!! The other bruises and her dignity are healing.
Great way to see the city tho and we did quite a big circuit around the waterfront. Later Helen cycled out to the conference venue to check it out and then returned by tram later for the opening event. The conference organizers had included a 3 day public transport pass in every conference pack which was very handy and was used everyday on the trams

Saturday 27th To the Finnish Countryside

2009-07-04T13:14:00.000-07:00

Friends Kia and Outi who stayed with us in Auckland last summer took us for trip out into the Finnish countryside which was an absolutely fabulous day –saw heaps of trees, lakes, fields, stopped for artisan bred in small café and fresh picked strawberries. Spent much of the day at Fiskars, an older town with a rich history and which is still the headquarters of the company that makes the magnificent kitchen and garden tools. Finished with picnic near an old church and it was so nice to see them and spend the day like this.
Bit disconcerting to have only an hour or so of true darkness here at the moment –sun sets about 11pm and rises again about 3 am so light till about midnight and again at about 2 am. Have to really pull curtains well as our room faces east and sun comes straight in about an hour after rising.

Friday 26th June London to Helsinki

2009-07-04T13:09:00.000-07:00

Early start, H&L on Tube by 7 am but uneventful trip to Heathrow. But very crowded by time we went thru security and immigration –H had to take off boots and have them x rayed. Bus out to plane and uneventful flight to Helsinki-fortunately 3rd person in our row didn’t show so had a window seat –amazing number of lakes and island across southern Sweden and western Finland. Finnair Bus from airport to city and then walked up to Radisson hotel.

Thursday 25th June London.

2009-07-02T13:04:00.000-07:00

Liberty’s,Wimbledon and Sports Direct.
Another stunning day in London-ended up being very hot in the afternoon. A&K went shopping in Oxford St at Sports Direct and made some great purchases. L&H went to Liberty’s and drooled over fine fabrics and resisted temptation to buy cos prices were astronomical. Then about 2pm caught Tube to Wimbledon and walked all around the complex, peered thru railings at Centre Court and Number 1 Court buildings, watched and talked to people who had been in the queue for 5 hour just to buy a ticket to get into grounds (before getting ticket to actually watch the tennis which may take another couple of ours). Quite fascinating to see the whole thing in action. Back to St Pancras and dinner in an Irish pub and early night ready for an early start Friday morning.

Thursday 25th June. View from 6th floor window at St Pancras YHA

2009-07-02T12:58:00.000-07:00

Great view out our bedroom window at the YHA –the refurbishment of the St Pancreas Station Hotel

Wednesday 24th June Norfolk, Sufffolk and back to London

2009-07-02T12:51:00.000-07:00

Major fiasco trying to post stuff back to NZ and then another ancestors day firstly trying to find some of Lyndsay’s Bayliss family residences on outskirts of Norwich, and then Lincoln/Scarlett ancestors in one Norfolk and one Suffolk graveyard.
Found headstone for John and Amy Brigham (plus whole swag of other Brighams) in churchyard in Brooke in Norfolk which has a very nice round towered church but at Wrentham in Suffolk could find no trace of the folks supposed to be there. Ran out of time to look further in Lowestoft, Beccles and Brockdish so will need another trip here sometime.
We had been booked to stay that night in the YHA at Cambridge but they had had a fire there the previous week and so we had to change plans so decided to also scrub the Easy Hotel at Heathrow on Thursday night and instead spend the last 2 nights in London and had booked at the refurbished St Pancreas YHA which was convenient for Eurostar for A&K and tube back to Heathrow for H& L to fly to Finland. But that meant another long afternoons drive from Suffolk back to Heathrow and hit traffic on M25 about 40 miles from airport and a bit of a crawl from there on and a couple of circuits to find the gas station before returning the car to Europcar, shuttle back to the terminal and tube into Kings Cross.

Tuesday 23 June Yorkshire to Norfolk and Annes swim at Mablethorpe !!

2009-07-02T12:43:00.000-07:00

Anne had been wanting to have a swim in the sea in England in June to prove a point and her opportunity finally came on our second to last day on the road, south of Grimsby on the Lincolnshire coast –very hot day, English people at the beach without their socks on but no one swimming –after a picnic lunch there we trotted down to the water and in she went with photos to prove it. Kaye and Helen paddled and water was quite warm. After another detour past a Royal residence (Sandringham) we continued on to the next YHA, an old church hall in Wells Next the Sea, on the Norfolk coast. After dinner walked down by the harbour at sunset –truly peaceful and beautiful spot but apparently gets very busy in rest of summer.

Monday 22nd June Edinburgh to North Yorkshire

2009-07-02T12:37:00.000-07:00

After leaving the YHA hostel we continued the Royal theme and A&K&H went to visit the ex -Royal Yacht Britannia which is moored in Edinburgh before heading south on the A1 down the Northumberland coast before a detour in the early evening to Anthony Gormley’s Angel of the North sculpture just south of Gateshead which is a pretty inspiring sight, before continuing south and onto the North Yorkshire Moors through Helmsley, where the church bells were ringing to our next hostel in the old schoolhouse in the village of Lockton. Probably the smallest we stayed in with one male and one female dormitory and 2 family rooms and the village still has working farms with cows which walk through the one street early in the morning. We breakfasted with nice couple from Perth ( Oz) traveling with 2 young daughters.

Sunday 21st June Carbisdale Castle to Edinburgh

2009-07-02T12:34:00.000-07:00

Beautiful sunny day, spent the day driving down cross country through the Cairngorms and Perth to Edinburgh. GPS bought us right to the door of the Edinburgh YHA in Leith Walk. Great Hostel recently refurbished ( tho more expensive) within walking distance of centre of the city, only drawback was no parking and we had to park on street about 6 blocks away. Also all electronic locks and we had to get an extension on time when our access cards stopped working on the dot of midday on Monday as we were moving out. We had all walked down to Edinburgh Castle and A&K stayed and did the tour.

Saturday 20th June Orkeny to Carbisdale Castle

2009-06-21T02:15:00.000-07:00

Returned from Orkney on beautiful sunny day and very smooth trip across Pentland Firth.

Then visited for nearly 3 hours the Castle of Mey, a previously derelict castle owned by QE the Queen Mother from 1953 onwards which she left to Prince Charles and is now his personal holiday summer home . Imagine a slightly upmarket version of a kiwi bach of the 50’s/60’s in a castle with jigsaw puzzles, videos of dads army, every gift she was given, her raincoat and Wellington boots at the back door andpaintings by local artists on the walls –was the only property she personally owned. One swet anectdote was she was to have a dinner party including Queen from Brittania, cook concerned short of lemons for the gin so she drafted radio message to ship “Grave concern ,short of lemons, please bring with you”. Gardens were smaller version of Heligan in a cooler climate-simply magnificent esp broad beans and currants.

Staying at Carbisdale Castle YHA with our bedroom in the tower –another fascinating place left to SYHA lock stock and barrel in 1945 including art collection and statues-1st image above is the YHA.

Westray to visit the ancestors Friday 19th June

2009-06-21T02:07:00.000-07:00

Very early start for us as had to be on the ferry at 7.20 am –another 1 hour trip from the Orkney mainland to Westray–quite calm. Met at Westray by our booked tour –turned out to be just we 4 with our driver Alec, a most interesting and cheerful 70 yr old local who was probably a relative of Lyndsays.

Several highlights –meeting other relatives ( distant) on farms where ancestors were born, finding the headstone of William and Ann Rendall, Georges parent’s and Lyndsays g-g-g-g grandparents, in the Pierwall Lady Kirk graveyard and seeing the seabirds soaring and nesting at Noup Head, a huge cliff face. No trees, gently rolling sculptured hills, huge skies ever changing.

Arrived back in Kirkwall in time for Huddersfield Choral Society concert in 11th Century Viking St Magnus Cathedral at 10 pm –brilliant –came out while still light at 11.30 pm.

At Brinkies Brae !!

2009-06-21T02:00:00.000-07:00

Drove over to Stomness in the afternoon and walked up on up Brinkies Brae, which is the large hill behind the town (made it here and now we will be on the way back !!! ) and then roamed the very narrow streets looking for food as surprising number of tourists out and about. Light tonight until nearly midnight tho passing heavy showers again. Helen is trying to hide from the midges in the photo.

Thursday18th June

2009-06-21T01:56:00.000-07:00

On the road early as needed to get to Gills Bay to catch the ferry to Orkney d made good time so were able to visit Dunnet Head which is the true northern most point of mainland UK as well as John O Groats and were able to see Orkney quite clearly once the very heavy squalls passed. Once on the ferry the GPS in the car just continued as if it was still on land. SYHA hostel here is a very old ex Army barracks but comfortable and showers have hot water. Ususal interesting assortment of people. Kirkwall is another interesting older town, rather grey looking as all the houses are built of the same materials, with cobbled streets and quite a big port area.

Caledonian Canal

2009-06-21T01:54:00.001-07:00

Wednesday –Caledonian canal
Fort Augustus Lift on the Caledonian Canal was a truly amazing sight, a canal lock with 5 gates and 2 people operating the gates and two craft coming up from Loch Ness into the Caledonian Canal-this canal allows you to sail/motor from Inverness virtually to Oban on the West coast ( there is a big flotilla traveling the other way this week with lots of song and dance on the way ) and has several locks and swing bridges and we saw them both in operation –not only that but Lyndsay was the lock keeper for a time opening the sluices and then opening one of the gates.

Wednesday 17th June

2009-06-21T01:50:00.000-07:00

Wednesday 17th June
Raining at Fort William this morning –Japanese all up, had stripped their beds and left our room before we were awake, bikers all dressed in waterproof gear left with roar of 13 Harley Davidson engines. Took about 4 hours to get to Inverness on road past Lochs Fyne, Oich, and Ness and the Caledonian canal ( about which more later). Met Loma and David who are old friends of Lyndsay’s, who now live near here, for lunch at the Culloden Battlefield Visitors Centre and then spent some time in the display area and had the short conducted tour of the Battlefield. Fascinating specially learning about all the long term effects of the loss of that battle by the Jacobites. Then to the Inverness YHA where our companions tonight are another interesting mix –elderly Scots walking cross country and 2 groups of Czech teenagers amongst others –both hostels so far in Scotland have been fully booked.

Tuesday 16th June Glencoe

2009-06-21T01:47:00.000-07:00

Stopped at Glencoe last evening and visited the Glencoe Massacre Monument that remembers the McDonalds massacred by the Campbells in 1692.

Tuesday 16th June

2009-06-16T16:14:00.000-07:00

Up late and following a great Katie breakfast, we all set off for Inverchaolin on Loch Striven, where in the churchyard there is a whole bunch of Currie relatives buried. Spent about an hour in the churchyard, just wandering and looking at tombstones and the nice little stone church built in 1912 to replace a wooden one that burned down-none of our relatives would have been in this church as had already left the area. Very calm and peaceful there except for the midges, which are fierce.
Beautiful summers day in Scotland -19 degrees, no wind but lots of midges ( we do hear it is 3 degrees in Auckland today –so sad!! ) and the loch was beautiful.
Also tried to find the Dunoon Bowling club with the gold medal but needed more time. Also stopped by the hospital and took heaps of photos of their H1N1 arrangements –all around the back of hospital with lots of signs about what to do –couple of portable cabins set up as triage area and tamiflu dispensing areas. Went right to the door of assessment area ( no patients in sight ) and spoke to nurse dressed in theatre scrubs, plastic apron, gloves, mask –maintained my “social distancing” whilst talking to her. Secondary school here with 1,000 pupils has been closed for a week.
Back to Dunoon for yet another glorious Katie meal and then on the road again about 2.30 pm and arrived at the Glen Nevis YHA near Fort William about 7.30 pm-in an 8 bed dormitory this time with all Japanese women party. There are also about 12 Dutch Harley Davidson riders here this evening –all middle aged, about 7 ft tall and built to match, all in black motorcycle gear –seem pleasant tho.
Facilities not quite as good as the English YHA hostels we have stayed in but do have wireless broadband for 3 pound per hour.
Still light at 11 pm.

Monday 15th June

2009-06-16T16:09:00.000-07:00

Another slow start and late get away -to Loch Lomond for brief look, then back to Dumbarton and found 4 High St which was Dad’s last address in Scotland-down a little alleyway and up a curved staircase to flats above the shops.
Then to Port Glasgow –depressed looking dreary town and sad looking dreary people (and it was raining!)- similar to Annie Mackenzie we were warned not to go to certain streets especially Bouverie St cos of the heroin addicts -some streets no longer exist and in some that still, do the buildings are no longer there ( PG bombed during WW11) –it was overcast and rainy. Found a number of the places where Mackenzie/Gaston ancestors had lived, all in the same small area. Highlight of Port Glasgow was finding the grave of Colin McKenzie, our great-grandfather, in the cemetery.
After the dreariness of PG it was a relief to find that Greenock and Gourock looked bright bustling and prosperous –there was a concern that things would get worse the further west we went.
Then onto red car ferry about 5pm and off to Dunoon, a gorgeous small town on the other side of the Clyde (which is incidentally the swine flu capitol of UK) to Katie and Willie’s where we had a very convivial evening –beautiful dinner and gorgeous wines, great conversation in a beautiful setting.

Sunday 14th June

2009-06-16T15:56:00.000-07:00

GPS took us in circles around Haworth but we did manage a quick visit to the Bronte Parsonage behind the church and large graveyard with heaps of beautiful trees. Haworth village is all small cobbled streets and difficult to manouvre in. There is a very large wind turbine up on the hill behid the village and we stopped underneath it, turned engine off and opened the car windows so we could all hear any noise from it –sort of soft swishing sound which I guess could get annoying if you were close to it for long periods of time.
Off to Lake District and after an irritating traffic jam due to road works arrived at Hawkeshead in Cumbria and then visited Beatrix Potters house at Hilltop at Near Sawrey (free on our Historic Places Trust cards!) Beautiful cottage just as she had directed it be left with original letter with Peter Rabbit story and lots of the furniture in the house features in illustrations in her books. Great National Trust volunteers in every room telling
Dash up the M6 motorway in pouring rain ( only 2 hours late ) and met up with Paul and John in middle of Glasgow about 7 pm -to the park where festival opening had been to drink beer –then to amazing restaurant –L had haggis, neeps and tatties then H back on train with Paul, and John went in car to guide the others to their home in West Dumbartonshire where we had an extremely comfortable night.

2009-06-16T15:51:00.000-07:00

Away from Ravenstor again by about 10 am and then spent a couple of hours wandering the Peak District –heaps and heaps of walkers, cyclist and motorcyclists and people going to explore caverns, all escaping from the cities of the Midlands .Can see Manchester in the haze from right up on the Dales.
Then down into the valley –stop at Stockbridge at Tescos and saw boat go thru canal lock which was really fascinating and thru to Rochdale where we found streets where Lyndsay’s relatives Holdens and Browns had lived but no actual houses-interesting in that they seemed to live only a few streets away from each other. We had gone to Rochdale information centre for a map to find the streets and then had amazing assistance from 3 women in their history section who went to great lengths to find streets no longer on current maps –real challenge for them which they seemed to really enjoy.
Stayed night at YHA Howarth up on the Yorkshire moors, yet another former stately home, but in very good condition and we had a 4 bedded room to ourselves, wonderful self catering kitchen in basement and drying room that dried whole load of washing overnight.

Friday 12 June

2009-06-16T15:50:00.000-07:00

Had a quick whip thru Cheddar George at 10am-coach tours already unloading so moved on quickly to Bath where just peeked at Romans Baths and Pump room-nice busking in square by man playing dulcimer . Had a minor ( well major!!) issue with the GPS when she tried to route us north via the M6 thru Bristol, which we left just before it came to grinding halt in all lanes. Actually my fault cos hadn’t told the PS to exclude the motorway. Then did somewhat cross country route with stop for lunch with the Indian leftovers on a very small village green ( about 4m square) somewhere in Gloustershire-became a long and somewhat fraught day as we were due to be in Tupton with Kelly’s parents Peter and Lesley at 7 pm .In end we raced into YHA Ravenstor in Peak National Park , threw on change of clothes and managed to get there by 8.45 pm to a warm welcome and lovely tea. So nice to meet them before Keely and Daniel’s wedding in Auckland next year. Then interesting drive back on a pitch dark night since H had forgotten to bring post code to put into GPS and we were directed into middle of very small sleeping village.
Lots of tractors with huge tyres and silage trailers today-also changes in colour of stones for cottages. Ravenstor was another former stately home like Burly but in much better condition

Thursday 11th June

2009-06-16T15:49:00.000-07:00

Usual resolve to leave early but not away from Dave and Sylvia’s at Redruth until 10 am. Off to Padstow, nice place but overrun with older coach tour tourists and the small village of Rock across the bay looked a much better bet. Lynds was first in the queue for Rick Steins Fish and Chips at noon –very disappointing –routinely get much better at Riba in Devonport.
Then across Bodmin Moor to North Hill where Richard Tucker ( g-g-gf) was born-another amazing 15th century church and churchyard, and on thru more narrow lanes and high hedgerows to Calstock, a village on the banks of the Tamar River just on the border of Devon and Cornwall. Here Edward Tucker and Jane Kitto ( g-g-g-gm/gf) were married and first son Edward born. Fairly spectacular rail viaduct here which then killed the river trade down to Plymouth. So have finished with the Cornish Tucker ancestors and visited them all –only place we didn’t get to was St Veep where Edward snr was born.
Up and over Dartmoor –whilst a sunny day for us you can see how bleak and foreboding it could be there in the mist and rain. Sort of reminded us of Desert Rd.
Then onto M5 motorway and speedily up to Cheddar where had a nice room with ensuite bathroom for the 4 of us at the YHA. Heaps of French School children there too. Indian Takeaways for first time in England this trip –enough left over for lunch next day

Wednesday 10th June

2009-06-11T01:44:00.000-07:00

Beautiful morning, cloudy but blue skies. Off to Penzance first –found a laundromat (which was much needed cos no washing done since London) very close to car park and sea front–wandered around and then had another adventure as one of our party’s cashflow card was swallowed by the Barclays Bank cash machine!! Then headed north and stopped at Breage at the 15th Century church where our our 5x great grandmother Jane Kitto was baptized in 1793 ( she became Mrs Tucker and emigrated to NZ in 1841). Amzing church with painted friezes and huge churchyard.
Then it was off to Falmouth to meet up with Tracey and Chris ( from Kohukohu) and their daughter Tammy and sit in the sun by the sea and consume an enormous genuine Rowes Cornish pasty ( apparently the large crusty bit on the side is for the tin miners to hold on to with their dirty hands) and a local beer. So nice to see them on the other side of the world and in their own environment.
We then raced off towards Lost Gardens of Heligan with one or two false turns (despite our trusty GPS but mostly cos Helen, the driver, didn’t listen and her reaction time was not fast) and arrived there just before 4.30 pm-got in for 2 for 1 deal and had a wonderful 1 ½ hours before they closed. Highlights for Lyndsay were the restoration of jungle area and the ponds and the espaliered fruit trees, not to mention the walled veggie garden. Anne and Helen were very taken with the glasshouses, especially the peach house which was a passively heated glasshouse with espaliered peach trees facing south for sun in spring and summer. The huge walled vegetable garden was similarly impressive-pink flowered minature broad beans were outstanding and the asparagus –everything in their café is grown on the site. Kaye liked the non shearing sheep (they rub their wool off on trees) and Peter Rabbit who was just nibbling the grass minding his own business
Then home to Merrits Rd via the Tescos in Redruth in time for the 8 pm specials-3 cartons of rhubarb lite yoghurt for 1 pound and our 4 buns for 3 p. Kiwis traveling economically!!
Observation –can go from one very very narrow lane, to single lanes with a white line, to 2 lane motorways and vice versa within a very short space of time. Also more wind farms.

Tuesday 9th June

2009-06-11T01:31:00.000-07:00

Real ancestors day–off to St Agnes on the north coast, thru the village and down to Trevaunance Beach, had nice conversation with “lady of the manor” above the beach and her handyman who had been to school with the last of the Penroses from Trevallas. Then navigated ourselves to Trevallas Beach and set off on the Jericho Valley walk which H had been planning for about 2 years. Stopped at Blue Hills Tin mining and manufacturing place, the only one still in production in Cornwall and then continued up the valley and hill past Trevallas farm and Cross Coombe farm where Penrose/Commons are recorded in 1841 Census. We all managed to get stung by nettles on hands, arms and legs in the course of the walk !! After the farms, the track goes thru the airfield and along the cliff top from where you look back to St Agnes –spectacular!! Was one of the English summer days where 4 layers –silk, merino, polyprop, polar fleece plus a parka and beanies were needed.
Quick trip to Chapel Porth National Trust Cove cos Brett said we needed to try the “Infamous Iced Hedgehog” there ( “Cornish icecream smothered with farmhouse clotted cream rolled in honey roasted hazel nuts”-a little low cholesterol number ) –eaten whilst still in our arctic gear!
So then we decided to go to Lands End, as you do and had a bit of an episode where we took the wrong turning in St Ives and ended up in some lanes scarcely wider than the car. After Lands End the fuel gauge was going down quite alarmingly and all the petrol station people ( and there weren’t a lot of them) go home at 6 pm, but we were rescued by the ever reliable GPS which steered us to a 24 hr station at Tesco in Penzance. Interesting light on the sea by the lighthouse at Lands End and standing stones.

Monday 8th June

2009-06-11T01:24:00.000-07:00

Left Burley about 10 am and headed south west. Lunch at Lyme Regis with thousands of other grey haired day trippers and then a little detour of about 5 miles to Branscombe the village where the pottery of the same name originated-very tight roads and a super trickey ( ++++) hill start at a blind intersection with several hundred kilos of people plus about 100 kilos baggage in one car –the smell of burnt clutch and burnt rubber lingered for some time!! 3 back seat drivers didn’t help!!
Quick stop in Plymouth to see Francis Drake on Plymouth Hoe. This trip triggers lots of history things to read or re read. Lots of naval activity in this part of the world –Sprite and bigger helicopters flying around and Dutch frigate entering Plymouth Harbour. Could imagine Edward and Jane Tucker and their children getting on the William Bryan from a small quay there in 1840.
Crossed into Cornwall and then it started raining about Lisgard. Two large wind farms on the hills-real spooky looming out of the mist and rain. Got to Dave and Sylvia’s at Redruth about 6.30 pm. Very comfortable and room to move which was great.

Southern England Sunday 7th June

2009-06-08T23:55:00.000-07:00

Thunderstorms in the early morning but not heard by H&L in their dungeon. Off to Heathrow to pick up the car-still some gallantry amongst male population as heavy suitcases were whisked up and down the many, many stairs at Paddington station.
Very pleasant woman at the car hire place-we accepted the GPS which proved to be a very good decision.
Car is a Holden Zafira, supposedly 7 seated people mover which we foolishly assumed would be equivalent in size to our Honda Odessey but is actually much smaller so when it came to trying to put 4 suitcases in the back it became a real challenge. Helen driving and despite the GPS within 15 minutes she had managed to turn us back towards London-GPS is clever tho and then gives instructions on how to extricate yourself when lost.
The drive south through the back roads of Surrey and West Sussex countryside was breathtakingly beautiful with trees and flowers in full bloom and we stopped for a belated picnic lunch on the village green in one of the small villages.
More ancestors –brief stop in Arundel with its impressive castle-birthplace of Charles Boyce senior ( g-g grandfather) and then to Warblington Cemetery to visit Peter Blakes grave-a beautiful peaceful place with very old church followed by a whiz around Portmouth so Anne could get see HMS Nelson and her Majesty’s Dockyard there.
Arrived at the Youth Hostel at Burley in the New Forest about 7pm –wild ponies and foals all on the verges and on the roads along with donkeys –L had a bit of a fit when one donkey stuck its head in the window.
Quick trip over to Lyminton to see if Toddy was home –found the house but not there-then back through the forest (superb sunset in the west) to the Youth Hostel about 9 pm –––maybe a dozen people staying here.
Comfy bed in a 4 bedded bunkroom.

London Saturday 6th June

2009-06-08T23:48:00.000-07:00

Raining and a bit cold so plans to go up the Thames to Kew gardens were shelved and spent some of the morning in McDonalds ( more bad coffee) uploading blog material, then on Tube to check out St Pancras station where A&K will catch the Eurostar to Paris when we return to the south. An amazing building and the Eurostar just rolled in from Paris exactly on time to the minute.
In the morning in one of the tunnels in the Tube at Paddington a woman in the crowd who was rushing to catch a train tripped and fell face down right in front of us and smacked her chin, lip and nose on the floor –blood everywhere and a very officious little man stopped and kept saying “I am trained First Aider with certificates! ” until I had to tell him to shut up. It was just like the old CPR videos they showed us in nursing school where some one steps forward and says “Stand back, stand back I know CPR!” What was most interesting was how fast the station manager was on the scene, I guess the commotion was picked up on the CCTV which is everywhere.
H persuaded the team to walk from St Pancras via Hunter Street down to St Pauls –bells ringing for evensong-across the Millenium Bridge which doesn’t sway any more and to the Tate Modern where Lyndsay was especially taken with a Marc Chagall painting and we were all fascinated by an installation called 30 Pieces of Silver by Cornelia Parker. She had collected hundreds of items of silverware ranging from candlesticks to trumpets and flutes to trays and vases, had them all run over by a steam roller and then suspended in 30 groups about 20 cm above the floor –mind blowing stuff. Then just to finish off the day we headed for Oxford St and a shop called Primark-thousands of people in this cut price clothing store. A&K bargain hunted and H&L were overwhelmed and had to go outside. Dinner at an asian fast food restaurant –had promise like the fish and chip shop but again unfulfilled. Observations of Oxford St on a Saturday night –as many people in one place as in Hong Kong, and every other language than English.
Other random thoughts-shelves and shelves full of pre prepared food-no wonder people don’t cook ( H would be in her element here)-Tesco makes superb croissants and Sainsbury has great baguettes –crisp on out side and soft inside-you can tell this is a self catering trip!

London Friday 5th June

2009-06-06T05:21:00.000-07:00

On the Tube out to Ilford at the end of the Central Line–met at the station by Alice Moss, Susans nan who is a very sprightly, cheerful, generous 83 year old woman. Walked back to her house and had lunch there with her –chicken and leek pie, ham and salmon sandwiches, fruit cake, gingerbread and cups of tea –a veritable feast and cheerful conversation. Back into London past the building site for the 2012 London Olympics, and off to the posh shops in Knightbridge like Harrods. A&K went on a shopping spree at Primart and H&L walked down to Sloan Square and met Emma Pirie for very cheerful drink and dinner ( in Helens case drinks plural!!). A&K sucessfully navigated their own way home to Paddington on the Tube for the first time!!

London Thursday 4th June

2009-06-06T05:13:00.000-07:00

Today we discovered the free Wi Fi in McDonalds about 200 metres down the road near Paddington station so back on line again just for the price of a bad cup of coffee.
Gorgeous hot sunny day and we became real tourists today mixing with the thousands of others from all corners of the world. Big Ben was very impressive with magnificent gold decoration looming over us as we emerged from the Tube at Embankment -took a “flight” on the London Eye which was pretty impressive cos you can see for miles –in our pod was a young Orthodox Jewish couple –him complete with ringlets, Americans, Italians, Eastern Europeans, Dutch people.
Then it was off to the Tower of London-we hitched to one of the tours by one of the Beefeaters called Dave-a very loud voiced former Army Sergeant Major who was a witty and knowledgeable historian. Displays here are very well done, lots of audio visual together with the displays of armour and torture devices. Saw the ravens but what took our breath away was the Crown Jewels and the gold coronation altar items and table settings –again the presentation is superb-and the thickness of the vault doors impressive. There must be very state of the art security system all over this site but it was not evident other than a bag search at the entrance ( also bag search before boarding London Eye)
After a walk across Tower Bridge we then headed further into the East End in search of places that our great-grandmother Sarah Boyce (Beaumont) had lived in 1861 and 1871. Found Christian St near Aldgate where she had lived in a Public House in 1871 but not the building as the whole area had been rebuilt. Then it was off to Clerkenwell and we found Aylesbury Street and possibly the building where the whole Beaumont family are recorded on census night in 1861. There is a pub nearby called the Crown Tavern where about 200 people were out on the street cos it was a sunny evening and we spoke to a couple of Aussie guys there -2 pieces of trivia about the pub –Dickens set part of Oliver Twist in front of it and Karl Marx and Joseph Stalin met in the pub. The Marx centre is in the next street.
Back to Paddington exhausted again so headed to the Fish and Chip shop opposite hotel that looked clean and seemed very popular –another example of how looks can be deceiving! Consensus among us was that it was the most expensive and the worst F&C ( and in Annes case a hamburger) we had ever eaten-not cooked to order but all pre cooked. Wont be back there again. Fell into bed again for 9 hours sleep.

London Wednesday 3 June

2009-06-06T04:50:00.001-07:00

Easy Hotel Paddington London Wednesday 3rd evening

Well our cheap hotel is cheap because the rooms are very small, about 18 square metres including the bathroom and the bed is on a wooden base and you cant put anything underneath. Could be much better organized but has good shower with lots of hot water and it is quiet .
After early promise of fine sunny day it turned cooler in the afternoon but that didn’t affect the fun we had on the Fat Tire Bike tour of inner London-we were a group of about 12 with our guide Matt- a cheerful erudite young Londoner, proud to be English –left from Queensway Tube station and spent 4 hours riding gently, with frequent stops for talks from Matt on the history of places we stopped –went thru Kensington gardens, Hyde Park, past the palaces, Trafalgar Square, Westminster Abbey and parliament ( still standing despite the Govt being in total chaos here with ministers resigning all over the place) and the surprisingly restrained and impressive water sculpture memorial to Diana. Would recommend this bike tour to anyone of any age or fitness level visiting London –all you need to do is be able to ride a bike. Walked back to hotel and crashed for 9 hours. Photo shows Kaye and helen sitting on floor cos only place to use computer.

2009-06-06T04:44:00.000-07:00

Munich Airport 6 am Wednesday 3rd June . Well, we were really spoiled obviously in Hong Kong with free WiFi everywhere because while we have great hotspot coverage here in Munich Airport they want us to pay 8 Euros for 60 minutes so this is just being typed in draft this morning and internet news will have to wait until later.
Something I forgot from yesterday is that everywhere we went in HK people were wearing surgical masks –looked strange to start with but then we got used to it-all the bus drivers, street cleaners, supermarket staff –everyone there including the deli staff, and also so many people wearing suits. Also heaps of signs about H1N1 and recorded messages in the MTR about not spitting.
Another thing last night is that Lufthansa serves your meals complete with stainless steel knives and forks. No plastic for this lot even tho I still have to have my Swiss Army pocket knife in checked bags. Had breakfast over Bulgaria just before dawn this morning after I had been awake for about an hour, looking down over Khazakstan, southern Russia, and the Black sea .
Whilst we wait for our onward flight to London at 7.20 am instead of NZ Herald, Lyndsay is sitting here reading a free copy of the International Herald Tribune-wot joy.
Off to ride bikes in London today.

Farewell To Hong Kong

2009-06-02T06:27:00.000-07:00

After an uneventful trip from Auckland to Hong Kong we are departing after three days. The four of us have had a fantastic time The first day we arrived at our accommodation around ten in the morning, got showered and set off to explore Hong Kong. Lyndsay and Kaye went to the tailor and we just walked and explored. In the evening we went to see the light show on the harbour which was pretty ordinary as we couldnt hear the music and then we got spectacularly lost trying to get to the night market -helen famed for her geographical expertise made the first misdirection,and then Lyndsay's correction landed us back at the door of our lodging place-the only manifestation of jet lag so far !! . The next day we went via another huge shopping mall ( the designer shops seem to be conpicuously empty of customers with immculately dressed staff looking bored!!), to Lamma Island by ferry, a very interesting place, and there we had a seafood lunch, then caught the tram to the Peak, a fantastic view tho thru the smog -this mornings paper reported that yesterday had the worst air quality this year. In the evening we went to the night market.

Today has been our last day in Hong Kong and went to the jade market where successful purchases were made by three of us. We then went and walked around the daily food markets and this was certainly and eye opener. Live toads for sale and for the lucky, one can select their chicken whilst it is still alive. The veges looked so fresh and delicious. We went back over to Hong Hong Island and the afternoon was spent going up the external esclators to "the Levels" and the antique shops on Hollywood road. We returned to the accommodation shattered and headed on our way out to the airport for the next leg of our advednture to London.

So impressions of Hong Kong this trip

-the superb cheap, fast ,clean public transport with the great Octopus card

-wi-fi everywhere -on her ipod touch Anne could connect to trademe even on the travelators in arrivals at the airport and then from hotspot to hotspot whilst on the hundred year old trams from Causeway to Central

-just so many people

So now its off the Munich tonight and on to London in the morning.

Wednesday 27th -final planning meeting

2009-05-31T03:25:00.000-07:00

Chicken curry and lots of laughs as we finalised the last details for the expedition -took 5 goes toget a photo where we all had our eyes open and mouths closed !

20 sleeps before we leave

2009-05-09T15:58:00.000-07:00

Sunday 10 May 2009.
20 sleeps before we get on the plane to set off from New Zealand on our grand adventure- all 4 of us -Helen, Lyndsay, Anne and Kaye to Hongkong/ England/Scotland for the first month. Then Anne and Kaye go to Paris and then home via Los Angeles whilst Lyndsay and Helen continue on to Finland, Croatia and Switzerland before coming home thru LA also.

PS Brinkies Brae is the hill above Stromness on the main island of the Orkney Islands, north of Scotland, where we plan to go before heading to Westray, an even further northern island where the Rendalls came from -we liked the alliteration !!